Best Dives of Tobago

 Tobago, the “Robinson Crusoe Island,” is Trinidad’s small sister island. Separated by 22 miles of sea, both islands lie about seven miles off Venezuela’s coast. Tobago sits on the South American continental shelf at the southernmost tip of the Lesser Antilles arc. It has a land area of 116 square miles and a mountainous interior, with a central backbone known as Main Ridge that runs most of its length. Pigeon Peak, its highest point, reaches 1,700 ft. The hillsides and lowlands are dotted with thatched cottages, each with an array of prayer flags on bamboo poles. Most of the people live on lower ground and are fishermen or farmers. The northwestern Caribbean coast is ribboned with smooth beaches fringed by palms, breadfruit, mango and banana trees.

Inland jungles support exotic wildlife and luxuriant vegetation, including flowering trees such as the crimson immortelle, pink poui, with its large bunches of trumpet-shaped flowers, its cousin, the yellow poui, and the purplish queen of flowers (pride of India). There are more than 700 species of orchids. The country’s national flower is the chaconia, or wild poinsettia. Among the animal species are 60 kinds of bats, rodents such as the agouti and spotted paca (lappe), the pig-like peccary, the armadillo, the caiman (related to alligators), many types of snakes (including poisonous ones), and a great variety of birds and butterflies. This is the only place outside New Guinea where birds of paradise exist in their wild state.

The main tourist areas are Scarborough, the capital, and along the Caribbean coast between Plymouth and the island’s southern tip.

About half of Tobago’s 40,000 people are of black African descent, including those of mixed race, 40% have South Asian ancestry (the “East Indians”) and the rest are of European or Chinese descent. Many languages are spoken, but English is the official and common medium of communication.

DIVING

Diving Tobago is adventure diving at its best. It’s not just a visual experience, but a delight for the entire body and spirit. There are drift dives, “flights” through churning cuts, holes swarming with huge pelagics, monster coral forms, caves, grottoes, fish and more fish. For the diver grown weary of the ordinary, it is therapeutic.

Tobago’s best dive areas are nurtured by fresh and saltwater currents that attract an ever-present population of manta rays, huge turtles, dolphins and sharks. Less spectacular, but calmer, shallow-reef areas exist that are good for snorkeling and novice divers. The most famous spot, but not necessarily the most interesting is Buccoo Reef off the island’s northwest corner.

When to Go

January through June brings the best visibility and the fewest mosquitoes. Rainfall is heaviest from July to Dec, although it occurs in every month. Yearly precipitation varies in different parts of the islands but almost everywhere averages at least 50 inches. The islands are south of the normal hurricane belt.

The climate of the country is tropical, with little seasonal variation in temperature but with a significant contrast between day and night readings. Northeast trade winds moderate the heat.

History

Christopher Columbus discovered Trinidad in 1498, but never mentioned Tobago. The island later made up for this neglect by changing hands more frequently than perhaps any other Caribbean island. For two centuries, the Dutch, English, and French fought for control. The Treaty of Amiens gave Tobago to France, but the island was ceded to Great Britain in 1814. For a while the island was declared neutral territory. This, however, made it irresistible to pirates and Tobago turned into such a dangerous outpost of rogues that in 1762 the British invaded just to clear them out.

Subsequently, a prosperous sugar industry developed on the island and “as rich as a Tobago planter” became a familiar saying.

In 1976, Trinidad and Tobago severed its ties with the British crown and in 1980 Tobago was granted limited autonomy, exercised through its new House of Assembly.

Tourism increased greatly after World War lI, becoming the country’s second-largest industry as fast air service brought the islands within easy reach of North America. Tobago was discovered by tourists seeking a quiet, unspoiled tropical island.

Best Dive and Snorkeling Sites

Freshwater overflow from the Orinoco and the Amazon rivers is carried past the south and east coasts of Tobago by the Guyana Current. This mix of salt and freshwater nutrients produces massive plankton blooms that support a huge range of marine life. Many deep-sea fish are found much closer to the surface here than normal.

Manta rays, turtles and dolphin are the star attractions, with huge, silvery tarpon, spotted eagle rays, stoplight parrotfish, queen angels, electric eels, durgons, squid, jewfish, lizard fish, spadefish, triggerfish, occasional black tip sharks and hammerheads as a splendid supporting cast. Little Tobago is also a haven for every imaginable critter, including multi-colored barber shrimp, banded shrimps, arrow crabs, spider crabs, Christmas trees and feather worms, slugs, nudibranchs and urchins. One diver reports three sightings of a whale shark.

The main areas for diving are off Speyside around the out islands: Little Tobago; Goat Island; off the north coast around the islets known as The Sisters; and off the southern tip of the island.

The best snorkeling areas are along the Caribbean coast at Arnos Vale Bay, Englishman’s Bay, Castra Bay, Fort James, Courtland Bay, Buccoo Bay, Store Bay and off Speyside at Tyrells Bay.

SPEYSIDE MARINE AREA DIVE SITES

All of the reefs in this area fringe the out islands. There is a prevailing northerly current and most dives are drift dives. Check with dive shops before diving or snorkeling on your own. Water temperature averages 82° F.

Manta City, on the north side of Little Tobago, is the single most popular dive in Tobago. As the name implies, it is where manta rays are most commonly seen. Several of the mantas are used to interacting with divers and will approach to play. Avoid the temptation to hitch a ride as you may inadvertently harm the animal. Other residents are big French angels, urchins, crabs, blue tangs, jacks, damselfish, sharpnose puffers, and barracuda. Dive depths range from the extreme shallows near the shore to 50 ft. The bottom is a magnificent landscape of boulders and big rocks with good growth of star, brain and flower corals. Large barrel sponges and tube sponges are found at depth. The rays are usually spotted along the edge of a drop-off. Seas are generally calm with an occasional surge. The shallows are suitable for experienced snorkelers and novice divers. Unparalleled photo opportunities.

Blackjack Hole, also off the south shore of Little Tobago, is a gentle slope allowing divers to choose their own depth preference. A beautiful dive with loads of fish, as well as loads of corals, big and small. Peak interest on the reef lies between 45 and 90 ft. The surface is calm, protected by the nearby island. Currents, if any, are gentle.

Japanese Gardens, another manta-watch point, lies off the western tip of Goat Island. The reef’s rich and varied soft corals take on a flower-garden appearance with a landscape of odd shapes, colors and patterns. The surface is usually choppy, but there is little or no current below except at the center of a reef where you will catch a good “flight” for some minutes through a narrow canal. The first part of the dive is on a slope, and the last part is in an area with big reef-boulders and reef-patches on a sandy bottom. Sunlight reflecting in the sand adds a lot of color to the dive. Angels, grunts, moray eels, and parrots are always about. Divers select depths for their skill level—between 30 and 60 ft or between 50 and 100 ft for the very experienced.

Kelliston Deep, the site of the biggest recorded brain coral head in the world—16 ft wide and 12 ft high—sits off the southwest tip of Little Tobago. It starts at a shelf between 30 and 50 ft, then slopes down to a sandy bottom at 120 ft. Typical reef fish are abundant with occasional sightings of nurse sharks and manta. The outer edge starts in 50 ft. This beautiful area is destined to become a marine reserve.

Paradise is an almost circular arena with a sandy bottom. The site is off an islet just south of Little Tobago. You enter at the edge of a hole, go through a narrow canal, around a corner and over an edge. Above you, heavy wave action forms clouds and clouds of white foam, and right under the white foam drift loose schools of tarpons four to eight ft long. A magnificent sight. Nearby and a part of this dive is a gently sloping reef with lots of coral and fishlife. Suggested experience level depends on sea conditions. Average depth is 60 ft.

All the Way is a playground of gigantic boulders—a secretive dive where you don’t know what’s around the next corner. The reef slopes are a marvelous seascape rich with coral and sponge growth. Depths average 40 to 50 ft. “All the Way” is off the northeast tip of Little Tobago.

Glennmorgan lies in a sheltered area off the eastern coast of Little Tobago. Soft corals and slender tube sponges color the canyons and walls of the reef. Average depth is 60 to 80 ft. Seldom any current. Expect to meet white-tip sharks and other pelagics. Suggested experience level depends on sea conditions. Often calm.

CARIBBEAN DIVE SITES

London Bridge, at St. Giles Island off the northern tip of Tobago, is a rugged dive on a good day. St. Giles is a small rocky island with a hole going through both above and beneath the surface—like a bridge. As you enter the hole you experience a Venturi effect and are whirled through by a rush of water. Exhilarating! The depth in the hole is 30-40 ft, and the rest of the dive is normally at 60 ft. Maximum depth is 110 ft. Fish life is superb with 30-lb parrot fish, huge green morays, lobster, schools of tarpon and pelagics between the walls and boulders. Big sponges, sea fans and corals. Experienced ocean divers except on extremely calm days. Boat dive.

The Sisters are a group of small islands off Bloody Bay on the northern coast. Reaching the site requires a 30- to 45-minute boat ride over choppy seas, but if you crave a dramatic wall dive with huge pelagics, it’s worth it. The wall is strewn with big boulders and rocks. At times you might find current and at times you might find surge. For experienced divers.

SOUTHEAST DIVE SITES

Water temperature on this Atlantic side is about 79° F. Dives on this Atlantic side are drift dives with strong currents and some surge. Currents often run in one direction on the surface and the opposite way at depth, with occasional upwellings and downwellings. Not suggested for the timid or inexperienced diver.

Diver’s Dream, an awesome stone formation with towering fissures, cracks, canyons and caves, packs in an incredible wealth of fish and crustaceans. Once in the “Dream,” you’ll encounter giant vase sponges measuring six ft across, and finger corals that are 10 ft high. Large schooling reef fish mingle with black-tip sharks, nurse sharks, huge turtles, barracudas, and mantas. Surface conditions are calm, with gentle rollers. Always a drift dive with a one- to three-knot current. Recommended for experienced drift divers.

Diver’s Thirst is a mix of rock and reef which forms an amphitheater populated by big grouper, black-tip sharks, eagle rays and midnight parrot fish. Maximum depth is 45 ft. Always a drift dive. Surface conditions are light. Experienced drift divers.

Dive Operators

All Tobago dive operators require a C-card and request a logbook. Rates for a two-tank dive average $50. Prices subject to change.

Note: Tobago diving is fairly rugged, weather-dependent, with seas that often run five to six ft. Suggested for experienced ocean divers.

Aquamarine Dive Ltd., at the Blue Waters Inn, Speyside, tours Coral Gardens, Book Ends and Japanese Gardens. Fast boats and modern equipment. % (809) 639-4416, fax (809) 639-4416. US, % (800) 6-GET WET. E-mail: amdtobago@trinidad.net. Web site: www.trinidad.net/bwitobago.

Man Friday Diving is at Man-O-War Bay, Charlotteville, near Speyside. Danish owner and dive manager Finn Rinds tours the best sights around Little Tobago and the northeastern spots. He is personal friends with a few mantas too! The PADI/NAUI shop has storage lockers and equipment rentals. Finn whisks divers out to the reefs aboard a 28-ft custom dive boat. Dive packages can be arranged with Blue Waters Inn at Speyside or Man-O-War Bay cottages. % (809) 660-4676, fax (809) 660-4676. Write to Man Friday Diving, Charlotteville, Tobago, WI.

Tobago Dive Experience is at the Rex Turtle Beach Hotel on the northern, Caribbean coast and at Manta Lodge in Speyside. Dive master, Sean Robinson, offers trips to all the Caribbean spots and around the south tip to the rugged Atlantic sites. This NAUI/PADI shop offers basic and advanced courses, dive equipment and photo rentals. Plus personalized videos. In Grafton: % (809) 639-0191, fax (809) 639-0030. In Speyside: % (809) 639-7034, fax (809) 639-0030. E-mail: divemanta@trinidad.net. Web site: www. trinidad.net/tobagodive.

Tobago Marine Sports Ltd is at the Crown Reef Hotel, Store Bay. Operated by Keith Darwent, this full-service PADI shop offers all courses, and tours the southeast tip of Tobago—Caribbean and Atlantic dives. Contact Keith or John Darwent at % (809) 639-0291. Write to PO Box 300, Crown Reef Hotel, Store Bay, Tobago, WI.

Dive Tobago Limited at Pigeon Point is Tobago’s oldest dive operation. It caters to the beginner and advanced diver. Resort courses, $60. One-tank dive with equipment, $30. % (809) 639-0202, fax (809) 639-2727. E-mail: cohel@tstt.net.tt. Write to PO Box 53, Scarborough, Tobago, WI.

Accommodations

Dive-accommodation packages including seven nights accommodations, 10 dives, three meals daily, transfers and taxes, are offered by Into the Blue Tours starting at $875 per person for a double. % (800) 6-GET-WET. E-mail: cvdt@aol.com. Web site: www.intotheblue.com. Scuba Voyages offers similar tours. % (800) 544-7631. E-mail: scubavoy@ix.netcom.com.

Manta Lodge, a lovely, low-rise dive resort in Speyside, offers 22 deluxe rooms with private verandas and an ocean view. Your choice of ceiling fan or air-conditioning. Tobago Dive Experience on site. Pool, beautiful beach. Rates for five nights, including eight dives and breakfast daily, are $575 from April to Dec, $635 from Dec to April. % (800) 544-7631, direct (809) 660-5268, fax 660-5030.

Grafton Beach Resort, in Black Rock, is the island’s leading hotel. Situated on the Caribbean, this 100-room luxury resort is set amidst five acres of tropical splendor. Features are a swim-up bar, pool, air-conditioned squash courts, gym, restaurant, palm-lined beach, entertainment, dive shop and an 18-hole golf course nearby. Guest rooms have air-conditioning, cable TV, private bath and mini-fridge. Book through your travel agent or direct. % (809)  639-0191, fax (809) 639-0030. Near Tobago Dive Experience.

Mt Irvine Bay Hotel is a 64-room, two-story complex with 42 adjacent cottages on the site of a 17th-century sugar plantation. It is located on the south end of the Caribbean coast. Beaches are across